Indonesia

May 12, 2017

 

 

 

Its a long way west to east flying from Paris and however excited you are arriving here, I was as zapped as I've ever been after flying anywhere. The heat and humidity here is never easy but the lines arriving onto the reefs at Uluwatu started to make my heart pump from the top of the hill miles from even seeing them being challenged by the 8'0 riding hellmen.

The low tide moving out fast with the moons big tides moved the waves from up the reefs and onto outside corner. The long period swell meant for breaks between the big sets but when they came the were impressive. The usual guys I see when I'm here were charging, loving the first big swell of the season. Made Lana, who, in my opinion is the best backhand surfer here by a long shot, was charging and got the wave of the day, that I saw at least, doing his trademark bottom turns and speeding up never ending faces to his electrifying hook always in the perfect spot!

Anyway, here are a few photos, and for my 20 odd days here I'll keep a running report for those interested!

Now, off for some stretching before a whipping in the still big conditions!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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